Depth-of-field is more than Aperture

[Photo 1] Egypt—Missionary Mike Edens (left) worked closely with Egyptian Baptist pastors to enhance their discipleship and pastoral ministries. These pastors—(left to right) Mikhail Shehata Ghaly and Anwar Dakdouk—took MasterLife discipleship training in Cyprus in 1984 [photo by Don Rutledge]

Technically, Depth-of-field—is the distance between the nearest and farthest objects in a scene that appear acceptably sharp in an image.

Don Rutledge

I have never met a photographer who understood more about packing more into a frame to tell a story than Don Rutledge.

It takes a lot more ability to take a photo of what appears to be clutter and compose it so that you capture a story than it does to isolate by either getting closer or zooming in and isolating a subject.

What Don Rutledge taught me, and yet I still haven’t begun to execute it as well as he did, was to use the environment around the subject to provide context and tell a better story.

He taught me to spend time with a person before I take a photo of them. Spend time getting to know their story; this way, once you know them, you start to see things around them and their body language that help inform the audience through visual clues as to who the subject is as a person and how they interact with people in their world.

[Photo 2] While legislators around the nation debated the need for rat-control laws–and disputing their funding–Don discovered these two youngsters who proudly displayed the results of their morning hunt. In that section of Cincinnati, Ohio 1968, rats were not particularly difficult quarry to locate.

Don taught many photographers not to watch the edges of the photograph but to pay attention to the “Depth-of-field” when making the photograph. He wanted to use the thing in the foreground and background more than any other photographer I knew to help tell the story.

In Photo 1, you can see down the street and around the men as they walk down the street in Egypt. While most everyone is laughing as if a joke was just told—notice the woman behind the men. Her expression tells another story.

I can picture this woman being similar to the woman in Matthew 9:20, “If I can just put a finger on his robe, I’ll get well.” Jesus turned—caught her at it.

She is not a part of the men’s group but is interested in them.

In Photo 2, you see not just the rat being held by the boy but his friend and the place of their discovery. His friend’s body language and the alley where they found it adds so much to the context.

[Photo 3] This is early morning in Mississippi for Luvenia and Bailey King King sleeps as his wife puts breakfast on the table [photo by Don Rutledge]

To get this type of “Depth-of-field,” Don invested time in his subjects. In 1979, Don spent a month living with the King family in Mississippi. He added just enough money to the family budget to not add any financial stress and not change their living standards so he could cover what it was like living below the poverty line in America.

This photo [Photo 3] became a favorite photo of many from the story. The image captures Bailey King and shows how thin he is and how hard his wife worked to provide for the family. It is not a photo of Bailey but of his wife, Luvenia.

[Photo 4] Appalachian migrant family in Ohio during 1968 [photo by Don Rutledge]

In Photo 4, you can see a father who is concerned, and then you can see his children in the background. The children are like all children and pull the viewer into the story of a migrant worker who will travel wherever, finding work to provide for their family. Many photographers cropped just above the father’s head and left the boy in the window. The reason is they most likely would not have seen the boy.

Don had a patience about him that let him be in the moment. He could see things that most missed. Don really and truly had more empathy for his subjects than just about any other photographer I have known.

[Photo 5] Africa—Sally Jones (white coat) felt emotions well up inside as she shared this moment with concerned mothers at the Southern Baptist Feeding and Health Care Center’s clinic in Ethiopia.

Many photographers might crop in much tighter on Sally Jones. In Photo 5, Don goes wide and gets close to ensure you see her expression. I remember often seeing the contact sheets of moments like this when Don was editing. He would show me the moment before and after, where sometimes the lady in the background was only there for one of maybe ten frames. She adds so much by helping pull you to the background after seeing Sally. There are more mothers outside, which helps to convey.

[Photo 6] Israel—Missionary kid Sommer Hicks plays on the rocks of the Sea of Galilee with her dad, Ray Hicks, in the background [Don Rutledge]

So often, photographers get so focused on the main subject that they forget that those around the subject can sometimes give us insights into them. Here we get a glimpse of how everyday life is for Ray Hicks in Photo 6 when we see how much fun his daughter is having at the sea of Galilee Don shot it in a way to bring Ray into the photo and give a context that Don did so well time and time again.

Please look at how often Don uses depth in his photos to tell stories. Here are two coverages of Russia that Don did in the 1980s. Don shot these for a magazine that would only use, on average, maybe 8 to 12 photos, but look at the depth of his coverage. I remember seeing this coverage on so many light tables and Dan Beatty commenting on how he could tell so many stories whenever Don returned.

Getting the moment in a portrait with the Nikon D4

 
Nikon D4, Sigma 70-200mm ƒ/2.8, ISO 500, ƒ/5, 1/640—Off-camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800. The flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the flash’s output.

My client recently hired me to capture her granddaughter. She wanted the best expressions and said this was why I wanted to do the photo shoot. I continued to help her with her commercial needs, and she knew I concentrated on getting the “moment.”

Nikon D4Sigma 70-200mm ƒ/2.8, ISO 500, ƒ/5, 1/800—Off-camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800. The flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the flash’s output.

I intentionally shot these on my Nikon D4 to use the off-camera TTL flash system I have come to love. I am using the off-camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800. The flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the flash’s output.

We decided to shoot outside on their deck because the little girl was not happy when I arrived inside. However, the mother said she loved the outside, and sure enough, as soon as we went outside, she became another person.

You have to remain flexible. I wasn’t thrilled with the railing, but I liked the plants on the deck.

 
Nikon D4Sigma 70-200mm ƒ/2.8, ISO 500, ƒ/4, 1/1250—Off-camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800. The flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the flash’s output.

While the little one loved the outside, she was starting to get a little fussy, so mom gave her blueberries that she just loved, but also gave me many photos with drool.

During some of the time, it was sprinkling, and the other time, it was overcast. So getting a consistent color was achieved by winking in a flash.

Nikon D4Sigma 70-200mm ƒ/2.8, ISO 500, ƒ/4.5, 1/800—Off-camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800. The flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the flash’s output.

While I liked the green in the background, I found this oversized recliner I used for a three-generation photo of the Grandmother, mother, and child. I prefer the cleaner background, and had it not been raining, I would have suggested getting off the deck so I could eliminate the railing. A different location would have led to an even better background.

While I love the Fuji system, when it comes to nailing the focus and moment, I still prefer my Nikon D4.

Fuji X-E2 at ISO 25600

 
Fuji X-E2, 55-200mm, ISO 25600, ƒ/4.8, 1/340, Kelvin 10000

Last night we went to a concert at Red Sky Tapas & Bar to see the Dueling Pianos.

I am pretty sure this is how the light was in those caves at the beginning of time. Even with the LED spotlights, there wasn’t a lot of light in the room.

Fuji X-E2, 55-200mm, ISO 25600, ƒ/4, 1/240, Kelvin 10000

Low light is an excellent example of why Fuji designed their X-E2 to shoot at ISO 25600. Without the ability to use such a high ISO, you would not be able to shoot a handheld photo with the Fujinon XF 55-200mm, which at its most extended zoom is a ƒ/4.8.

I am shooting across the room, and right now, Fuji doesn’t have a ƒ/2.8 lens, so I have to crank the ISO up.

I cropped close to 100% of the photos above.

Even looking at the photo at close to full resolution, I am not displeased with the result. I think it is an acceptable resolution for publication in a magazine. I think it would have no problem being a two-page spread photo.

Fuji X-E2, 55-200mm, ISO 25600, ƒ/3.6, 1/400, Kelvin 10000

I could not go and get a custom white balance, so I started by dialing the white balance to Tungsten, and it wasn’t close. I noticed after a while that the lights were LED lights. I then chose to use the Kelvin setting and dial it to 10000. I thought this Kelvin setting would be a good starting point, and I decided the colors look pretty good.

Fuji X-E2, 18-55, ISO 25600, ƒ/3.6, 1/350, Kelvin 10000

The conclusion is if you ever find yourself in situations where the room is so dark that you need to shoot at a high ISO, be sure your camera can go as high as the Fuji X-E2, which at ISO 25600 made these photos possible.

Why I own Nikon and Fuji camera systems

 
 
 

I now own two camera systems, and I am not alone.

My friend Gary S. Chapman put it perfectly yesterday when I was talking to him. He believes we have returned to how we used to be before digital, multiple formats for the right job.

I used to shoot with 4×5 Linhoff, 2 1/4 Hasselblad and 35mm Nikon film cameras. Then we all tried to get one camera to do it all when digital came along.

For a while, I think that is what I was doing and, to a certain extent, the Nikon D4 is doing. I shoot sports, do general assignment work, and, most crucial, add–VIDEO. The Fuji system isn’t cutting it for two of the three things I regularly shoot: Sports and Video.

So I find I love Fuji X-E2 for shooting what I call general assignment still photography works excellently. It does affect your workflow just a bit. The Fuji does take longer to ingest because the file sizes are almost double the Nikon D4 RAW files.

Many of the clients that I shoot for are all photographers themselves. Some of them have bought the Fuji system based on what they saw from my images caught with the Fuji system. The Fuji system is like the Leica M series when I shot that with film. So I think for a while Fuji X system for many photographers will be an addition but not a replacement system.

Like I want one camera bag to do it all, I think I want a camera system to do it all. So, just like I own multiple bags for different purposes, I will also hold other cameras for various purposes.

I find that if I need some camera gear—meaning if it will help me retain or get new clients the equipment always pays for itself. I would not own most of my system if this were a hobby. I couldn’t justify it. Lucky for me the gear keeps me quite competitive in this ever-changing market.

Protecting and help retain the value of lenses

Not long after I bought my first Sigma 120-300mm ƒ/2.8, I invested in the LensCoat Neoprene Cover for the lens.

On the most basic level, it prevents cosmetic blemishes on the surface of the lens and helps retain the value of the lens. However, your lens will still depreciate. Look at KEH’s guide, and you will see how much depreciation is cosmetic.

KEH grades:

NEW New defined as packaged by manufacturer complete with manufacturer’s USA warranty. Not previously owned or used by a consumer. *You have probably seen the words “NEW” or “LOWER PRICE” listed online or in our catalog, where prices usually appear. Due to specific manufacturers’ minimum pricing requirements, we are not permitted to publish the price if we sell it for less than the manufacturer’s Minimum Advertised Price (MAP). While these listings may seem inconvenient, it is our way of letting you know that when you call or click through on the website, you will be quoted the lowest pricing anywhere for comparable items.
DEMO The demo is defined as packaged by the manufacturer, complete with the manufacturer’s USA warranty. She was never owned by a consumer but used for demonstration.
LN “Like New” Includes the original box and instructions.
LN- “Like New Minus” Extremely slight wear only seen upon very close inspection. Box and accessories are usually not included. Glass perfect*.
EX+ “Excellent Plus” is Exceptionally nice. It May have slight wear on the finish but is visible only under close inspection. Glass is very clean*.
EX “Excellent” Shows moderate wear. It may have minor dents, dings, and slight finish wear. Glass may have little marks and blemishes that will not affect picture quality*.
BGN “Bargain” Shows more than average wear. It May have dents, dings, brassing, and finish loss. Glass may have marks and blemishes that should not affect picture quality*.
UG “Ugly” Very rough looking. Multiple impressions in metal, excessive finish loss, and brassing. Glass will have marks, fungus, and haze, affecting picture quality.
AI “As-Is” is Usually to be used for parts only. All equipment sold in the As-Is category carries no warranty nor return privileges. The equipment most likely doesn’t work and may have missing pieces. Defects include but are not limited to the problems listed in the description.

Here you can see the lens without the lens coating; that is how I hope to keep it looking for a long time.

A great feature includes a clear, flexible UV-PVC window over the AF/IS/VR controls and the distance-scale window. This window also helps you from accidentally bumping and changing those settings.

LensCoat® Lens Covers are manufactured from 100% closed-cell neoprene, offering protection from bumps, jars, and nicks, with a camouflage-pattern fabric cover. LensCoat® Lens Covers also provide a thermal barrier, protecting your hands from cold lenses in lower temperatures. In addition, they are easy to install and remove, sliding on like a sleeve and leaving no residue on the lens. And LensCoat® lens covers are waterproof, protecting in harsh conditions.

If the LensCoat performs as well on this lens as the last one I had on my older 120-300mm, I will recover the cost of the $89.

Here is a video explaining the product that LensCoat produced.

Photographers need repetition to grow

 
Fuji X-E2, 55-200mm, ISO 6400, ƒ/7.1, 1/125, EV -1.7

My bird feeders are teaching me a great deal these days. Of course, the feeder doesn’t change daily, but the light and the birds do.

This past weekend I observed we had a lot of fledglings. Fledge is the stage in a young bird’s life when the feathers and wing muscles are sufficiently developed for flight. It also describes the act of a chick’s parents raising it to a fully grown state.

Fuji X-E2, 55-200mm, ISO 6400, ƒ/4.8, 1/420, EV -1.3

Here I watched the House Finch feeding the Fledgling. It was just fun watching this take place, and so I decided I would pull out the cameras and photograph them. Again, the combining of one interest with another enhances the experience.

When I started, the photos were overexposed. This overexposing is because I was shooting in aperture mode. I had Auto ISO chosen with a minimum shutter speed setting of 1/500. I compensated for the exposure by turning the EV to -1.7 and would fine-tune it here and there based on the histogram.

The Fujinon XF 55-200mm was pretty slow with a ƒ/3.5-4.8 aperture. I was getting pretty good results, but we had rain coming down most of the weekend, and I thought this was a great time to test the new Sigma 120-300mm ƒ/2.8.

Nikon D4, Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Lens, ISO 4000, ƒ/6.3, 1/320 EV 0

With the Red Bellied Woodpecker, I was not having to use the exposure value compensation and got great detail in the feathers.

Nikon D4, Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Lens + Sigma 1.4 converter, ISO 4500, ƒ/6.3, 1/500 EV -1.3

However, when the darker Downy Woodpecker visited the feeder, I had to compensate the EV -1.3.

I was having fun, and the thing is, while I was having fun, I was also learning how to check the exposure from bird to bird because that would affect the direction. I could have tried the manual exposure, but the light was changing as the sun would peek through a little and then disappear.

I also enjoyed shooting with the faster ƒ/2.8. I was able to add the Sigma 1.4 converter when I photographed the Downy Woodpecker and got just a little closer to 420mm.

I was also learning about the birds. I downloaded Peterson’s guide to my iPad and enjoyed finding out the names of the birds. For example, at first thought, I had a Hairy Woodpecker, but that is a bigger bird with a longer bill.

Taking photographs allowed me to have the time to zoom in and examine the bird in detail. But, unfortunately, too often, they come and go on the bird feeder too quickly for me to study.

Now you know why so many birders are also photographers. The photos give you a long time to examine the bird.

Do you have something you can photograph regularly, see how your camera reacts in a different light, and also help you grow? If not, I recommend you look. I found mine in my backyard.

Process for buying a lens

 

While I reviewed this lens a year ago, I am now buying the Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Lens for the Nikon mount. So here it is on my Nikon D4.

The Sigma was more of an upgrade. Buying the newer version would be like selling your older car after getting 12 years of use of it and then buying a new one.

Until last night, I owned the original Sigma 120-300mm.

Here is a screen grab of the eBay listing I did to sell the lens. I sold it in less than 24 hours. But unfortunately, I didn’t list it until I had the other lens.

I listed the lens for sale using 11 photos, with this one being the main photo. Most people want to see everything.

I did differently this time by including photos taken with the lens.

These are all the photos I put up to sell the lens. In addition, two of the four images I posted taken with the lens were ones published in Sports Illustrated. I think this helped to sell the lens.

Too many people think that if it isn’t a Nikon or Canon lens, Sports Illustrated will not use it. I even had one photographer say this to me while standing next to me at a football game, trying to put down my lens. I laughed out loud at him and said that is funny because look at this week’s SI, and you can see the photo. Then he started back peddling and asked how big it ran.

 

Here is that photo.

All this is to say the lens I bought twelve years ago was great and did an excellent job through the years. However, I was replacing it because the newer technology that has come along makes it possible to get even sharper photos.

Sigma introduced a USB docking station that only works with their “Global Lenses,” and the 120-300mm is one of those lenses. Micro-adjust settings change the focus position bias and provide many exciting options for photographers who like to tinker with their equipment to get the best results. I am one of those photographers.

I do not have the funds to buy all the lenses now available in this focal length and test them. When I purchased the first lens, there were no other options except fixed lenses.

I highly recommend always going to the DXOMark website and looking at their test results on the lenses you are interested in buying. For example, I reviewed the DXOMark website when I wanted to see if I should buy the Nikon 200-400mm or get the newer Sigma 120-300.

The chart below is the side-by-side comparison of a Nikon D4. Another cool thing is you can check the results on your camera if they tested it.

I was also just a little curious about the Canon 200-400mm and how it measured up to it. So I compared it.

You can click on this comparison to see it larger. The bottom line is for sharpness; it was pretty equal.

Price Comparison:

  • Sigma    $3,599
  • Nikon    $6,749
  • Canon    $11,749
It was a no-brainer even after tossing in the USB Dock [$59] to calibrate the lens based on price alone.
Proverb

you get what you pay for

In commercial transactions, the quality of goods and services increases as the prices increase, i.e., the more one pays, the better the merchandise.

Well, the test results on these lenses and my experience with the Sigma lenses proved the old English proverb wasn’t always correct.

If you buy the lens, then be sure and buy the USB Dock and calibrate the lens. Here is a blog post I did about this process.

After I did all this research, I just looked for who had the lens and could get it to me at the best price. The best price nowadays was more about who offered free shipping because the price was pretty much the same no matter where you looked.

Stay tuned in the future, and I will be sure to post many photos from this lens.

Your photography gets better when you synthesize

 
Teaching in Lisbon, Portugal. [photo by Jeff Raymond]

Synthesizing is the combining of two things for something completely new. For example, I have discovered through the years that combining items in teaching improves my photography.

Storyline

I have discovered that as I came to understand Joseph Campbell’s The Hero’s Journey as a framework for telling stories, I could not only analyze a project and make it better, but I can also apply this storyline to my own life and make changes.

Studying the concept of the storyline helped me do a better job throughout the storytelling process. I did a better job of pre-planning and, amid the shooting of the story, adjusted more quickly and improved the storytelling due to understanding the power of the myth of The Hero’s Journey.

Steve Johnson did a great job a few years ago talking about how synthesis takes place in ideas.

I have enjoyed teaching a lot more than I thought I ever would. I was terrified at first, but over time learned to thrive.

Teaching students in the Storytelling workshop in Lisbon, Portugal. [photo by Jeff Raymond]

I have shared in many of my past blog posts about how teaching is the highest form of the learning process.

Combining photography, video, audio, and writing, I have been able to tell stories more effectively than when I was doing photography.

When I started to teach, I was perfecting my storytelling skills. First, I had to connect the subject with the audience. Often that audience is just one person. Second, I would have to understand enough about the audience to know how to choose the right metaphors to engage them and teach different complex concepts.

[photo by Jeff Raymond]

I noticed that when I showed the audience something, their understanding increased over just talking about it. So I was synthesizing [combining] the visual and the spoken word to create a more meaningful and understandable presentation.

I have had many “Aha moments” where what many might consider a failure was a calibrating moment. You try a metaphor and realize this did not work with that audience. You may use it later, but then you must come up with another way to connect with the subject you are trying to teach the audience.

When pros take photos, the first pictures they take in a studio, for example, are to check the exposure, white balance, and often containing a composition. They then look at the photo and analyze it. Does it need to be lighter or darker? Is it too green or magenta? Do I need to do a custom white balance to fix it?

Teaching storytelling has me teaching a variety of subjects. Here are some of the topics I am training, for example:

  • Software like Adobe Lightroom, PhotoShop, Adobe Premier, or Final Cut
  • Lighting— Hot shoe flashes, studio strobes, radio remotes, flash metering, custom white balance, high-speed sync, slow-speed sync
  • Camera — ƒ-stops, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, EV, White Balance, composition, lens choices
  • Subjects — Sports, Fashion, Portraiture, Science, Features, Photo Stories, Environmental Portraits, 360º Panoramics, Landscape
  • Audio — microphones, setting levels, natural sound, voice over
  • Video/motion — formats, audio, storyboarding, scripts

There are more topics, but when I started to teach multimedia storytelling, I synthesized all of them in the class. You cannot teach a subject effectively if you do not know it inside and out. Once the student starts to ask questions about things you haven’t thought about, you must be able to process the inquiry and pull upon all this information to help formulate a response.

When you can answer the student’s questions and help everyone learn, you get invited to teach more and more. You then get exposed to more and more questions which often may have you saying let me get back to you on that question. I might find myself with a camera and working on a solution to the student’s question.

You see, when you teach, you will synthesize the material, and by combining the content, you create new content. As a result, you will start to CREATE new IDEAS. These unique creations will strengthen your portfolio and help you get more work.

Since I don’t always have a class to teach, I use the blog as a way to help me continue to synthesize content and improve my skills. Combining ideas is how you build a better portfolio.

How are you getting better?

Better bird feeder pictures with off camera flash

 
Fujifilm X-E2, 55-200mm ƒ/3.5-4.8, ISO 400, ƒ/5.6, 1/180

I love our birdfeeders. We have two of the Brome 1015 Squirrel Buster Classic feeders. They keep the squirrels from eating the seed, and the birds enjoy it.

When you start taking photos of the birds visiting outside the window, you often have to open up the ƒ-stop by 1 or 2 stops since the house is on the shade side of the bird. This technique can often blow out the background.

The solution is to add a flash, but I didn’t want an on-camera flash for a few reasons. First, it would create a glare if it was on the camera and shooting through the glass.

I put the flash down out another window and shot through another one. The result is what you see above.

I shot this with the Neewer TT850 flash [$104.95] and the Neewer 433MHz Wireless 16 Channel Flash Remote Trigger [$27]. Here is a photo of the system above.

While not a TTL solution, I find it works just fine. Even the TTL solutions have to be tweaked so often that I wonder if they are worth the extra money.

If the flash is too bright or dark, I just adjust the EV up or down on the radio remote, then push [SET], and it sets the flash. Of course, the flash must be on the same channel, but what is remarkable about this system is I can control up to 16 different channels. I have never shot anything with 16 flashes that I set at different power, but I guess I can if I want to.

Try this solution for yourself, and by the way, the technique will work on any camera with a hot shoe flash mount.

When you travel with Super Stars you need off camera flash to make them look good

Nikon D4, 14-24mm, ISO 100, ƒ/8, 1/250—Off camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800.  The Flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and being triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the output of the flash.

I am traveling with the famous Chick-fil-A Cow Mascots this week. They are traveling around promoting Cow Appreciation Day this Friday.

Click here to learn more

Dress head to hoof as they like to say at Chick-fil-A and get a free meal. Wear some Cow Attire and get a free entree.

Now let me tell you how I made the top photo. I had two VALS holding the two hot shoe flashes on either side of me. [VALS stands for Voice Activated Light Stand]

Without the flashes the cows would have been somewhat silhouetted and by adding the off camera flash I was able to keep the color temperature on them daylight and then also keep them bright enough to keep the rich colors in the background.

Nikon D4, 14-24mm, ISO 100, ƒ/6.3, 1/4—Off camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800.  The Flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and being triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the output of the flash.

Very similar lighting setup, just I am have a subject close to me blocking the light to the left. I dragged the shutter to 1/4 to be sure you saw the photo he was making on his phone.

Nikon D4, 14-24mm, ISO 100, ƒ/6.3, 1/4—Off camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800.  The Flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and being triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the output of the flash.

Here you can see one of my VALS holding the hot shoe flash. The other VALS is behind me pointing at the cow. If you look at the Cows eyes you can see the reflections of the two flashes. Notice the shadows on the concrete. This tells you they were all backlighted and the flashes made a huge difference.

Nikon D4, 14-24mm, ISO 100, ƒ/6.3, 1/4—Off camera fill-flash using the Nikon SB-900 & SB800.  The Flash is on the Pocketwizard TT5 and being triggered by the Mini TT1 on the Camera with the AC3 to control the output of the flash.

Here I am behind the flashes and you can see the other VALS here in the foreground. The other VALS is further to the left in the photo.

I don’t generally use these last two photos where you can see the flashes, but kept them to show to you so you can see how simple this is to do.

The best photo is often the difference is as clear as Night and Day

 
Fuji X-E2, 55-200mm, ISO 400, ƒ/7.1, 1/600 [3 images stitched together in PhotoShop CS6] Handheld

It is a Night and Day difference between these photos. Maybe we need to remember that saying next time we travel.

I find that few photos from the middle of the day stand up to dusk and nighttime photos.

Fuji X-E2, 55-200mm, ISO 6400, ƒ/11, 1/5 seconds [I stitched three images together, and the photo was shot on a tripod with a 2-second delay to eliminate camera shake]

There is a significant difference to me between the two photos.

Here are a couple of quick tips for shooting the nighttime shot.

  • Use Tripod
  • Use a cable release or shoot on delay [I used a 2-second delay]
  • Shooting ƒ/22 will give you a star effect around the lights. I shot at ƒ/11
  • Also, this is a great way to eliminate many of those pesty power lines
 

Cosmic Bowling & Off Camera Flash

Panasonic DMC-TZ5. ISO 1600, ƒ/3.3, 1/30

Here is a photo I took of bowling with a point-and-shoot Panasonic DMC-TZ5. I love the camera, and it had a great Zeiss lens. ISO limit up to about 1600.

It is the type of photo most people will get at the bowling alley during cosmic bowling without a flash.

Nikon D3, 14-24mm, ISO 200, ƒ/2.8, 1/4 with off-camera flash

I shot this of my daughter bowling a few years ago with the Nikon 14-24mm lens at 14mm. The flash and I are close to my daughter bowling. The flash is about 45º to my left. I panned, and the shutter was dragging.

I set the camera on Aperture priority and the flash to slow sync to pick up on all the ambient light. The panning action created the streaks you see across the image.

Nikon D3, 14-24mm, ISO 1250, ƒ/4, 1/15 with off-camera flash

Because the flash is so close to the subject and exposure is set by TTL [Through The Lens] metering, it shuts off and is just winking a light. The camera shutter remains open, picking up the available light in the background, so it doesn’t go black.

Nikon D3, 14-24mm, ISO 1250, ƒ/2.8, 1/15 with off-camera flash

The cool thing about using Slow Sync on the flash is I am capturing the room’s atmosphere, and the flash is putting light on the subject’s face. Just look at that first photo here, and you will see they would be a silhouette without the flash.

My suggestion is to go and try this with your friends. Go to a Cosmic Bowling Night and have some fun. I can tell you will enjoy the images for years to come.

More off-camera flash posts:

Apr 05, 2014
I prefer the off-camera flash any day to the pop-up flash on any camera. I have written many articles on it here on the blog. Just put the phrase “off-camera” in the search field I have on the blog, and you will see many posts …
Jul 05, 2013
Here is a list of what I recommend for those wanting to do off-camera flash with the Nikon TTL system and using the Pocketwizard radio system to fire the flashes. Of course, you can substitute another Nikon TTL or off-brand if you wish to …
Jul 14, 2014
Exposing to the subject can often blow out the background. The solution is to add a flash, but I didn’t want an on-camera flash for a few reasons. First, having it on the camera and shooting through the glass would create a glare. I put the flash
 
Jul 09, 2014
Without the flashes, the cows would have been somewhat silhouetted, and by adding the off-camera flash, I was able to keep the color temperature in the daylight and then also keep them bright enough to keep the rich colors 
Apr 14, 2012
By combining off-camera flash and having people moving, I get two great results; great expressions and good color. The first thing I started with on the assignment was a group photo, but the best results as far as 
Feb 25, 2013
Here is how to use off-camera flash and gels to change the look of the sky. When I get this kind of situation on a cloudy day in Kona, Hawaii, sometimes I fix it with flash. Using an off-camera flash, I set the flash to be 2-stops over the available light and the 
Apr 10, 2012
When I first wrote about doing off-camera flash I realized I needed to come back to this and highlight some points. ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture, and +/- There are a few things that will affect you getting proper exposure. Let’s set 
 
May 21, 2011
Three things make me choose my Nikon Speedlights over the manual flash: 1) I have no sync speed limitations, 2) quick—I don’t have to pause to take readings and then set the camera, and 3) I can shoot at very 
Jul 06, 2012
You can trigger the off-camera flash in many different ways. I often use the Nikon SU-800, which uses infrared to activate the off-camera flash. I chose to use the PocketWizard Mini TT1 on the camera with the AC3, which lets me …
Jul 05, 2012
I also used my Gitzo carbon fiber tripod to keep the camera rock steady so that I could shoot these at dusk. This way, everyone’s eyes were open and not squinting on the beach. To trigger the flashes, I had the PocketWizard Mini