My Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

This is what I have found works for me. You may find different results with other settings.

Here some shots from my coverage of the Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl that I mixed in showing some of my results.

Michigan State vs Pittsburgh [NIKON Z 9, VR 120-300mm f/2.8G, Mode = Aperture Priority, ISO 25600, 1/3200, ƒ/5.6, (35mm = 600)]

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

These are the settings that I use on my Nikon Z9 for shooting most all sport action. Nikon has made it really nice to allow photographers to save these settings so they do not have to remember each and every little setting they like to use for a style of shooting.

If you go to Menu and under the camera icon pick the first item “Shooting menu bank.” I have chosen B, which is my sports menu.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

If you toggle into the “Shooting menu bank” you can rename those settings. Once you choose one of these settings everything you do to change the menu will be saved in that menu bank. I recommend to go ahead and try all my settings and then tweak them to your preferences.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

When shooting sports it is very common for the lighting conditions to change instantly. While the football player runs toward you they may go from shade into direct sunlight. For this reason I let the camera do some of the thinking for me.

Go to the camera icon again and look for “ISO sensitivity settings.” Select this and you will then see this menu:

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

I turn on the “Auto ISO sensitivity control.” Then I set the minimum shutter speed to 1/4000. You could pick something else. I used to shoot at 1/2000. The ISO setting is what you see in the smaller window below the menu. I set this to ISO 100 and then set the “Maximum sensitivity” to ISO 25600.

Michigan State vs Pittsburgh [NIKON Z 9, VR 120-300mm f/2.8G, Mode = Aperture Priority, ISO 25600, 1/4000, ƒ/5.6, (35mm = 600)]

Why 1/4000? Well when you are shooting football from the end zone to the other end of the field with a 600mm, you may want to crop. I do crop to get even closer. Therefore this is more like shooting with a 1200mm lens or longer. The longer the lens [CROP needs to be factored in] the higher the shutter speed. If you are shooting a 200mm then shooting at 1/200 shutter speed works pretty good for stationary objects. Now following the action on football field means your camera is moving a lot.

I have found that my photos looked even better at 1/4000 than they did at 1/2000. I am moving the camera and the player is moving–we are not always in sync. They may Zig while I Zag. That is they are going opposite my movement, which accentuates the movement.

Michigan State vs Pittsburgh [NIKON Z 9, VR 120-300mm f/2.8G, Mode = Aperture Priority, ISO 8000, 1/4000, ƒ/2.8, (35mm = 160)]

While I am in Aperture Mode shooting the camera will always pick 1/4000 shutter-speed. If in sunlight I am at ƒ/4 the shutter-speed may go as high at 1/8000 at ISO 100, but as the scene changes and the athlete is now in the shade the camera will automatically drop to 1/4000 @ ƒ/4 and then change also the ISO up until I can still shoot at 1/4000.

The only time the shutter speed will dip below the 1/4000 is if the ISO peaks out at 25600.  If my aperture is wide open then the camera is doing everything that I would have done manually, but faster than I could ever adjust the camera. That is how you get more shots than the guy next to you.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

Next select the Pencil on the menu and then go into the Custom settings bank.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

Again just like the Photo Shooting Menu create a Sports Menu as I have done here.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

Next choose the Autofocus in the menu.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

Then choose the Focus tracking with lock-on.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

I change the “Focus tracking with lock-on” from Normal to 4. What happens when I do this is the delay for the lens to refocus if something comes in between the camera and subject (like a referee). While I am following someone the camera will not refocus right away. This is something you need to try and pick what you like. You may want the lens to be more responsive and therefore go to setting 1 which will let the lens refocus instantly.

Focus Settings

You want to pick Autofocus Continuous mode for sports.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

In the menu Pencil selections pick AF Activation under the Autofocus settings.

Nikon Z9 Sports Settings

Then choose the AF-ON only. This will mean when you push the shutter release it will not focus, but just fire the shutter to take a photo.

By changing these settings you will notice the camera will stay in focus and shoot faster frame rate. Great for following a baseball player sliding into a plate and another player trying to tag them or maybe a football player running towards you to score. You will find more photos tack sharp in a series.

I generally put my focus point dead center and lock it so I don’t bump it. I am trying to get photos of moving subjects and off center is too difficult for me. I may crop later for a better composition, but I want the subject in focus first.

Now this gets a little complicated so pay attention to the highlighted text above.

Here are the selections again with more explanation

Turn off VR on your lens. The simple fact is that VR is a solution to a problem, and if you don’t have that problem using VR can become a problem of its own. VR should normally be off if your shutter speed is over 1/1000.

After doing my own findings someone shared that Nikon came out with their own guide for shooting sports. Here is that PDF for you.

More photos from the game

Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
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2021-12-30_21-34-33J
2021-12-30_20-32-06D
2021-12-30_19-53-48F
2021-12-30_22-00-50I
2021-12-30_22-20-22A
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
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Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
2021-12-30_21-34-33A
2021-12-30_21-34-33J
2021-12-30_20-32-06D
2021-12-30_19-53-48F
2021-12-30_22-00-50I
2021-12-30_22-20-22A
Chick-fil-A: Chick-fil-A Peach Bowl 2021
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Fuji X-E2 AF Settings

There is a learning curve with every new camera I get. Changing to another brand increases the learning curve a great deal.

Auto Focus with the Fuji X-E2 has been a challenge for me due to the learning how the camera works the best. This was true with me learning all the settings for my Nikon D4. When shooting sports I used a totally different AF settings than for normal photojournalistic shooting that I normally am doing with storytelling style I use.

This is what I am finding to work best for me for now for photojournalism style of shooting.

First go to the shooting menu and go to the [camera 4] part of the menu. The top 4 menu items in that submenu all deal with AF.

For the AF MODE I am finding I like to use the Multi-Mode

In the AF Multi-Mode when the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera detects high-contrast subjects and selects the focus area automatically.

It generally is pretty quick and picks most of the time the closest object with high-contrast to the camera.

For the most part I am leaving the Face Detection off. If I am shooting portraits or a group photo I might choose to have this setting on. Intelligent Face Detection sets focus and exposure for human faces anywhere in the frame, preventing the camera from focusing on the background in group portraits. Choose Face Detection for shots that emphasize portrait subjects.

If PRE-AF ON is selected, the camera will continue to adjust focus even when the shutter-release button is not pressed halfway.  Note that this increases the drain on the battery. Generally this is off for me.

You need to go back to the first menu item AF Mode and pick AREA to use the focus points. Once this is selected and you are not in Face Detection mode you can move this green box around on the grid points.

You will need to push the AF button to then activate the screen you see above.  Then you can toggle around the screen using the four buttons around the Menu OK Button to navigate.

When you select a point you can increase the size of the green box to take into account more area to determine the contrast to pop the camera in focus.

Here you can see I increased the size of the box for focusing.

All these functions work with AF as long as on the front of the camera you have chose C [continuous] or S [single].

Now frankly the one thing Fuji need to do in a firmware upgrade is allow you to over ride and just grab the focus ring and adjust the focus. This is where Nikon and Canon are superior, for now.

In the M [manual focus] setting you are then able to adjust everything manually. I will not go into those setting right now.

AF Setting Tip

Once you have everything set the way you like it in the menu, then go and save the setting in Custom settings.  That can be found in the 3 menu>Edit Save Custom Setting.

I am using a few of these custom settings. My hope is Fuji will do a firmware upgrade allowing the user to change the naming of those settings rather than being stuck with “Custom 1” when I might like to call it “Portrait” or “Sports” for example.

Sound Tidbit

Beeping noise is the default setting for the camera. So when the camera locks in the focus you hear a beep. Don’t make the mistake I did by choosing to turn the sound off.

Do not use the Silent Mode to turn the sound off of the beeping. When you do, the flash will no longer work. This includes the internal and if you use any external flash.

You can turn the sound off by going to the Sound Set-Up screen.

The next thing you choose in the menu is the Operation Vol.

I put my setting to OFF. Now the beep I no longer hear, but the flash still works. Hey I missed a bunch of photos because I had the camera in Silent Mode and never could figure out why my flash stopped working. I thought I had broken the camera. I had to wait and read the manual to find the reason why.