Shooting portraits in the middle of a department store for a workshop

 
 
Nikon D750, Nikon 85mm ƒ/1.8G, ISO 10000, ƒ/1.8, 1/500

BEST BUY® DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP
Today I taught a workshop at the Best Buy 850 Cobb Place Boulevard Nw, Kennesaw, GA 30144. After a brief overview, we divided into two groups. We would rotate from Portraits and Low Light to Sports and Macro.

Andrew was the first model that each of the students shot.

We were in the TV section, which can get pretty dark the farther back you go, which we eventually would do.

This photo was a typical first shot for most of the students. Guess what the first lesson was teaching? Use your feet and get closer. I shot the top photo as an example and asked them to compose their shot this way first. Even after they shot their second photo, most still were too far back.

Nikon D750, Nikon 85mm ƒ/1.8G, ISO 10000, ƒ/1.8, 1/500

I then shot this photo and showed them the person doesn’t have to move, but you can clean up your background. I am shooting these at ƒ/1.8. They were to shoot wide open and then take a photo at ƒ8 or even ƒ/11 to compare their backgrounds.

Nikon D750, Nikon 85mm ƒ/1.8G, ISO 7200, ƒ/1.8, 1/500

I even went behind the subject slightly to show even more angles.

I also taught them how to set the white balance other than using AWB [Auto White Balance] by choosing a preset like Tungsten, Daylight, or Fluorescent. Then I showed them the best way was to do a custom white balance. Here are earlier blog posts that cover this for you.

For even more blog posts, just put your topic like “White Balance” in the search field at the top right of this page to search my blog for even more posts.
 
Nikon D750, Nikon 85mm ƒ/1.8G, ISO 6400, ƒ/1.8, 1/500
We then changed groups and models, and I repeated the same information. Here I moved the model to a different location to get a plane wall behind her and used the existing track lights in the ceiling for the lighting. Again, it looks like I did this in a studio.
 
We talked about keeping the eye closest to the camera in focus as a tip.
 
Nikon D750, Nikon 85mm ƒ/1.8G, ISO 6400, ƒ/1.8, 1/500
I also talked to the group about having one shoulder closer to the camera rather than perfectly squared up for a more flattering photo. But, as always, these are guidelines and not complex fast rules.
 
Fujifilm X-E2, FUJINON XF 18-55mm, ISO 6400, ƒ/3.2, 1/160
I also showed them how to make an environmental photo by pretending this model was the leader of this department. This example was to help them know when they may want the more cluttered background. To help make the lady stand out, we had her closer to the camera and not just close to the environment.
 
Nikon D750, Nikon 85mm ƒ/1.8G, ISO 4500, ƒ/1.8, 1/500
After they made the “environmental portrait,” I asked them to leave her where she was and to move around and make a portrait. Here I walked to her side, cleaned up the background, and used a shallow depth-of-field.
 
Nikon D750, Nikon 85mm ƒ/1.8G, ISO 5600, ƒ/1.8, 1/500
Then I walked to the other side. I found that the students only started to grasp the idea of using their feet to recompose after I showed them. Slowly they began to explore and look for better images.
 
No strobes and shot all this in the busy Best Buy store showing how it is thinking about what you want to capture and not just a magical camera setting that will make them better photographers.
 

Change Capture Time in photos using Adobe Lightroom

 

Yesterday I shot an event with a friend. We were posting these to an online photo gallery for the client. Well, we discovered that the cameras were not all set to the correct time. Uh-oh!

You might need to change the capture times if you traveled to a different time zone and didn’t change your camera’s date/time setting before you started photographing. Or, if you import a scanned photo into Lightroom, the image would contain the creation date of when one scanned it rather than when someone took it.

Select all the photos you want to adjust first in Adobe Lightroom.

The photo above shows where you will start to fix the date and time. Go to the menu item and then click on

Here is a screenshot of what will show up. You will have three options here. The first choice is to Adjust to a specific date and time. The Original Time is what the setting captured. Then go to the Corrected time, put what you need it to be, and click on change to adjust it.

The second choice works well when you might have just had the camera set for a different time zone and need to adjust it by hour increments. Then the pop-up option on the far right is all you need to choose an hour adjustment of +/-.

The last choice will change the creation date and the correct time. These are two different fields embedded in the photo. Great for scanned images where the creation date wasn’t when anyone scanned it.

There you have the directions to change the date if you did not set your camera correctly. Time stamping is excellent when you have multiple cameras and need them all synced for the client to see the photos in the order you shot them.