Recruiting photography for school that looks natural

Reading Time: 5 minutes

The cry of focus groups when they review most educational recruiting pieces seems always to say they want natural-looking photos and not set up. The problem is not setting up pictures or trying to grab what you can to get a natural look; it is hiring the right photographer. Also, it is a team effort of the school to set up the situations by having students, teachers, and the correct problems with enough time for moments to become “REAL.”  

Focus groups need the right questions. 

After spending the last twenty-plus years as a photographer shooting pure photojournalism, where you capture what happens in front of the camera, to shooting for advertising pieces, where there are stylists arranging everything in a photo, my experience says most focus groups are asking the wrong questions. 

“Do you like the photo?” is not as good a way to gauge whether the photo was successful as “What did you learn from the photo?” You can even have a picture again on a questionnaire from your recruiting materials and ask, “Does the photo help you see what a typical dorm room looks like?” You could ask, “What could improve the photo to show you a dorm room?” 

I have come to this place of evaluating photos because of my experience with “real” photographs on Indeed. I have spent many years shooting “photojournalism” for magazines, newspapers, and wire services. You do not change a thing in these photos, and you do everything you can to use composition, lens choices, lighting, and timing to communicate the mood and reality of a situation. Often, a photojournalist’s photos are not “pretty” pictures.

Photographers will use composition to create more conflict, adding to the photo’s mood. Having a focus group evaluate war photos with the typical question, “Did you like the photos?”, will yield results that suggest the photographers were unsuccessful. 

Often, what you get is by just grabbing shots here and there.
However, some planning and adding light to the scene can make a difference.

Make your photographic coverage strategic. How can you know the right moment to take a picture unless you have a relatively clear idea of what the subject means and what you are trying to accomplish? In addition, when you are interested in a topic, you want to learn more about it. So you dig below the surface values to the truth beneath. That way, you get to know it intimately and can photograph it understandingly. 

Why are we taking this photo? Are we trying to show teacher to student ratio? Are we trying to show what is in your dorm rooms? Are we trying to show the diversity and how well everyone gets along on campus? First, you need to understand what you are trying to accomplish. Understanding does not necessarily mean a technical knowledge of the subject. 

It is about seizing the right moment. Staging might be necessary, or I just floated into a meeting and shot, as in this case.

 Understanding is interest, sympathy, and curiosity, the human element of the equation. Are you photographing who you are or what you want to be? While photojournalism will give you “real” photos, sometimes reality for recruiting will keep your institution on the same path rather than where you would like to be. 

Getting “Real Photos” is what I call “sitcom” photography, which works best. Of course, we all know the sitcom isn’t real, but it can create such a reality that we are all tuning in to see “Who shot JR?”

Spontaneous moments in a hall with two close friends communicate diversity better than sometimes setting something up. However, it must be prevalent on your campus, or you will not capture it just because you have a photographer. Plan for creating moments and letting the photographer have time to catch things along the way.

 Natural-looking photos are the type of photography in which the school has determined where they want to go and then creates communications pieces to help them attain that goal. For example, if you want to be more diverse in the future, you will need to show diversity. If you keep it real, you will research those situations where diversity exists. Then you would photograph those situations and prominently feature them in your piece.  

I worked hard to get the expressions to sell that they are a community with diversity.

As one person said, “You don’t want to be the lone raisin in a bowl of milk.” If everyone works on diversity and inclusion, it does happen over time.  

As you can see, there are a few ways to communicate your message using photographs. Of course, the ideal scenario is to have “real” photos. If you had a photographer follow you everywhere you went this year, you might get the reality you need.

Shooting at The Citadel and a Roman Catholic high school is easy compared to the clothing problems introduced in most other schools.

Sometimes “reality” isn’t what you want to show—the student wearing another competing school’s T-Shirt. A student with significant overweight or skin problems can detract from the message. Distractions are why we so often re-create reality, like in a sitcom. If properly planned, you will tune in and want to know more about your school. You may even want to include others, such as students in wheelchairs or those who need walkers. 

Capturing students’ joy makes them want to come to a place like The Citadel, where they will spend much of their time listening to orders from upperclassmen.

The making of photographs involves understanding light, mood, texture, form, and line. So give me a call, and let’s make your recruiting photos—REAL.

Advice for those going from staff position to freelance

Reading Time: 5 minutes
Landing in a sand trap is how I would describe my layoff. You don’t want to be in one, but it is something you can get out of. (Nikon D2x, ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/750, 600mm)

In 2002 I was laid off from what I considered a great job. Truthfully, I was very frustrated with the environment I was on staff for the last few years. While I enjoyed the opportunities to shoot various subjects, I found myself out of sync with my coworkers.

I should have left earlier, but I didn’t think I could make it as a freelancer. I liked having people give me things to photograph and go home and come in the next day and do it again.

I was devastated when I got called in and told that my position had been eliminated. I called my wife and friend to come and help me pack up my gear and books and move out. While packing my things, my friend was trying to comfort me and made a profound comment. “Stanley, if you put in the amount of effort you have been doing here in your freelance, you will be a very successful photographer.”

I thought about his comment a lot that first year of freelancing.  He had said it to me with such conviction that I realized he believed it accurate. Later even my wife would comment and say that he was right.

My life did change, and each day I got up and worked hard. I didn’t drive to downtown Atlanta every morning, but I did work many hours. Here are the things I did and still do today. I call these tips for the freelancer.

Take your time and get your thoughts in order. Just like this golfer has to read the green to sink the putt, look at your goal, and you will also see how you will need to plan some path to success. (Nikon D2x, ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/1000, 400mm with 1.4 extenders)

Tips for the freelancer

  • Keep a similar work schedule to the one you had on staff. Get up and go to work. While you may not have to drive anywhere to commute, still get out of bed, eat breakfast and then take that commute to another part of your house/apartment.
  • Get dressed for work. One of my friends, Ken Touchton, told me that he used to get dressed and put on a tie to go to the next room in those early days. It helps put you psychologically in a different frame of mind.
  • Create a calendar of events, just like you had in your last job, and schedule time for the different things you need to be doing. You need to create; meetings and lunch dates and find events from things like the Chamber of Commerce to attend in your community.
  • Create a database of clients, prospects, and family/friends. You may need to buy a list to add to your current list. You may need to go to the library and find those resources with contacts for your niche´. Remember this formula for every 1,000 contact names in your database; only 100 of them will be interested in your services. Of those 100 contacts, only 10 of them will become a client.
  • Create a plan to connect to those in your database. Another formula is to know that it takes about 6 – 8 touches with contact before they remember you. Therefore you need to have a plan on how to contact these folks in a way that is positive and not annoying. I recommend mixing up your arsenal. I use Phone Calls, emails, eNewsletters, Blogging, Postcards, and events to make contact with my prospects and clients.
  • Develop an elevator speech. You need to be able, at a moment’s notice explain to anyone what you do. Here is a link to mine.

http://stanleyleary.com/2minuteshow/_files/iframe.html

Attitude Adjustment

When on staff, you had a role. You would contact people asking if they needed your services. If this is how you worked, then you need to change.

Your goal should be to develop friendships. It would help if you got to know people so well that as they talk about their life, you can see ways you could help them. This is a lot of listening and offering sound advice that isn’t solicited. Once you are at this level in a friendship, it is much easier to give them suggestions of something that might help them.

I listen to my best friends, and often, if I have a suggestion to help them, I point them to a friend, not me. This is how I have learned to build my business. I am there as a resource to help tell my friends (clients) to solutions and other friends; I have to help them.

My friends (clients) see me as someone looking out for them and helping them to be successful. When my friends do the same things for me, I know I can go to them with even more things. I try and include them even more in my life.

We all have those acquaintances that are always trying to get us to use them. We do use them when they are a good fit, but we don’t go to them and talk about our life. We can’t trust them like our friends.

Continuing Education

It would help if you continued to get better and more relevant to your prospects and clients. Set aside time to research your industry. Find out what is next on the horizon. Go to associational meetings and hear what others are doing.

Join a professional association. Become friends with your competition, and you will discover they are your colleagues. I am often booked and have just a few friends I can trust by helping my clients and not trying to steal my clients.

Get involved in those professional associations by helping with meetings and serving as an officer. It will help you grow in knowledge and make you more valuable to your clients.

A team works together for the good of all. They practice together so they can perform flawlessly. (Nikon D3S, ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/640, 300mm)

Build a team

It would help if you found an accountant, lawyer, and maybe someone to assist you on a contract basis. As you grow, you will need to farm out things that take up your time that can be done by someone else.

When you start, you need to consult experts. One of those should be a mentor/coach. Find someone who will help you navigate the waters of freelancing. They may live in another city. Whoever you find, be sure you regularly work with them.

Summary

Freelancing is like a farmer. You will be plowing the fields, weeding, and doing a lot of work long before you can harvest the crop.

If the farmer doesn’t invest time and time, then there is no harvest.

Like the farmer, you can do everything right, but things are outside your control. Most of the farmers I know have tremendous faith in God and know that while they can do everything right, much is out of their control. They pray for guidance and wisdom. Most of all, they pray for grace.

How to get rid of orange and green backgrounds with flash

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Nikon D4, ISO 3200, f/6.3, 1/80, 28-300mm, White Balance: Flash

Have you been getting photos like this with your off-camera flash? You have a mixed lighting situation. The background is tungsten, or 3200º Kelvin, and the subject has flash, or 5500º Kelvin.

With Lightroom 12.2.1 Release and later, you can use a mask to select the background. The AI in Lightroom does a pretty good job, and then you can color-correct your images this way. However, if you do this on camera, as shown here, it is even faster than having to select pictures and correct backgrounds. While you can do multiple photos in Lightroom, you still have to take the time to check each one to see if the mask worked. This takes too much time compared to using colored gels to change your flash to match the ambient color temperature.

Nikon D4, ISO 3200, f/6.3, 1/80, 28-300mm, White Balance: Tungsten

Now, by doing everything is pretty much the same except for two things that are changed: the flash has an orange gel on it to match the tungsten, and then the white balance for the scene is set to tungsten.

I prefer to put on the orange gel over the flash and then use my ExpoDisc to get a custom white balance. I point the lens to the flash with the ExpoDisc in front to help me get an accurate skin tone for the subject.

Nikon SB-900 with the gel kit, the flash, and the two covers. One at the bottom holds the gels, and the other cover is a diffusion filter. You can use the gels with the diffusion filter as well. There are two green and two orange filters. You can test these, and depending on the lights in the room, one may work better than the other.
The gel slides into the plastic cover, and the hole lines up with a raised piece. When you do, the little white squares will automatically adjust your camera to the correct white balance when on the camera hotshoe.
Here you can see the cover snapped back on the SB-900 with the other gels off to the side in the carrying case.

I prefer not to see the orange and green backgrounds in my photos when using flash. However, if you use the gels I am showing you here, you will fly through the post-production. Many people try to remove the color shift in the background with post-production, but converting the flash to the correct gel combination is far faster than just color-correcting one image.

Imagine shooting a wedding or an event, where you may have hundreds, if not thousands, of images to color correct if you do not use gels.

Nikon D4, ISO 3200, f/6.3, 1/80, 28-300mm, White Balance: Flash 

This is with regular flash under fluorescent light. From my experience, there are more color differences under fluorescent lights than under tungsten. Just because you see a fluorescent light doesn’t mean it will be green. Some lights are already daylight-balanced and will give you proper color with a flash. 

Nikon D4, ISO 3200, f/6.3, 1/50, 28-300mm, White Balance: Fluorescent

Here you can see the shift to a better skin tone and background, not as green because I used a green gel over the flash.

While this may take 2 – 5 minutes to set up properly over time, you may cut your time to 2 – 3 minutes. You must see this in your overall workflow. For every photo you shoot, 2 – 5 minutes once or 2 – 5 minutes to color correct it. It is your choice. Depending on the situation, you might not have time. If you had the time and didn’t do it, you will wish you had during the post.

Off Camera Flash Examples

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Walk and Talk

This past week, I was privileged to photograph a college campus. I combined two things that gave me some of my best photos: off-camera flash and people moving. These combined techniques resulted in great expressions and good color.

The first thing I started with on the assignment was a group photo, but the best results regarding expressions were not when they were standing still but when they all walked toward me. Now mind you I almost lost my photo assistant a few times. He had to walk backward and keep the same distance from the group constant. This was to ensure I had good exposure.

Nikon D4, 28-300mm, ISO 100, 1/250, f/6.3, Off-Camera Fill Flash with Alien Bees 1600 and fired with Pocket Wizard Plus System.

Since I had a good group and we finished early with the group photo, I divided them into small groups and had each do what I call walk-and-talk. We assigned one person to talk and the others to listen with their ears and eyes. So, one person talks, the others listen, and they walk towards me.

Thankfully, the assistant didn’t fall this week while walking backward, carrying lights, and watching the subjects to ensure the lights were on.

Nikon D3S, 14-24mm, ISO 200, 1/50, f/5.6, Off-Camera Fill Flash with 2 – Alien Bees 1600, fired with Pocket Wizard Plus System.

Buildings

I love shooting buildings at dusk. The photo of the building and the students walking is taken at 7:55 p.m., and sunset is at 7:58 p.m. I love this digital camera. You can see all the information, like when I shot the photos. While the sky looked better about 20 minutes after sunset, we had to let the students go to another commitment.

We had them walk through the scene a few times. My two Alien Bees 1600 are lighting the building on full power, powered by Paul Bluff’s Vagabond batteries. 

Nikon D3S, 14-24mm, ISO 200, 1/1.6, f/11, Off-Camera Fill Flash with 2 – Alien Bees 1600, fired with Pocket Wizard Plus System. The flash sync was set to Rear Sync to get the car lights behind the car and not in front of it.

I took the photo above at 8:24 p.m., and as you can see, the sky is much darker blue but not black. I used the Alien Bees to light up the building since this campus didn’t have lights on their buildings at night.

Fill flash in the woods.

Nikon D4, 28-300mm, ISO 250, 1/80, f/9, Off-Camera Fill Flash with Alien Bees 1600 and fired with Pocket Wizard Plus System.

One of the ugliest lighting is under trees. You get a green cast due to the light going through the leaves. I used the off-camera flash with the Alien Bees 1600 to kick in light from the front and mainly offset the green light. I also benefited from having light in their face rather than raccoon eyes. Raccoon eyes are caused by top lighting, which you see during the day and give you dark circles around the eyes.

Fill flash in direct sunlight.

Nikon D3S, 14-24mm, ISO 200, 1/200, f/13, Off-Camera Fill Flash with Alien Bees 1600 and fired with Pocket Wizard Plus System.

Why use a flash in direct sunlight? You need to avoid raccoon eyes, and also, if you want, you can help drive the audience to the subject by using the light as I have done here.

Fill flash inside

Nikon D4, 28-300mm, ISO 3200, 1/125, f/6.3, Off-Camera Fill-Flash with Nikon SB900 with the lightest green gel that comes with the system. Also, I am using the Radio Poppers radio transmitters with the Nikon SU-800 and Nikon SB900 so that I do not have to be in the line of sight for the infrared to trigger the flash.

When I am inside, and people are working like this lady on her computer, you are just as prone to get raccoon eyes as outside. Why? The reason is that the fluorescent lights above her act like the noon sun. I have the photo assistant hold the flash and direct it to her face. The Nikon SB900 is zoomed to 200mm and, therefore, is light using a grid on studio strobes. It is directing the light to just her face. 

I used the lighter green gel with the Nikon SB900 system to balance the flash with the room lights. To get the correct lighting, I took a custom light reading using the ExpoDisc and had the assistant point the flash at the lens when I did this. I tried both green gels that came with the camera, and the lighter gel gave the best balance of color with the rest of the room.

I set the sync speed to Slow-Sync. I shot the photos in Aperture Priority on Auto ISO with the maximum shutter speed set to 1/100 so I would avoid the color shift that happens with fluorescent lights.

Tips for Off Camera Flash for +/- exposure problems

Reading Time: 2 minutes
Off-Camera Flash Setup with Nikon Speedlights

When I first wrote about using off-camera flash, I realized I needed to revisit the topic and highlight some points.

ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture, and +/-

A few things will affect your ability to get proper exposure. Let’s set each of these on a Nikon so that everything will work.

ISO – Be sure you are not using Auto ISO.  Start with the lowest ISO and adjust for various reasons.  For example, you may want to up the ISO to help open the background.

Enter the menu and set the Auto FP high sync speed to 250*. Auto FP High-Speed Sync is a flash mode used for fill-flash photography under brightly lit conditions. When set, you can shoot faster than 1/250 sync speed and do this only with your Nikon Speedlight system.

Set the flash setting to Slow Sync or Rear Sync.  I prefer Slow Sync for almost everything. If needed, this will fire the flash, and, the shutter may stay open for longer, but this will freeze the subject when you push the shutter.  If you choose Rear Sync, the flash will fire at the end of the shutter cycle. You may not know when the flash fires using this setting.

Please refer to the older posts on this to learn how to control the amount of light on the subject and how to control the background.

Ambient Light and Flash Combined

Improve your Flash photos by not lighting everything

Flash Over Exposing

First, be sure to turn the flash as far down as possible.  Using the SU-800, it will go to -3 Stops.

If you still feel overexposed, your ISO is usually set too high. Lower your ISO setting.

The background is too dark.

Crank up the ISO and double-check to be sure you have Slow Sync chosen. Otherwise, you will be syncing at the lowest shutter speed, about 1/60. You may need to be slower.

The background is controlled by the camera +/- exposure compensation dial and ISO.

Flash is too bright or dark.

Remember, the control for this is the SU-800 or the master setting in the pop-up flash on the models having this control.

Nikon D4 & Nikon D3S Differences

Reading Time: 5 minutes

While the cameras appear very similar, there are differences with shooting still images.

Now that I have practiced shooting with the camera for the past few days, I have noticed a few changes I had to get used to. First, I prefer to have two identical cameras. I like not to think about any differences between cameras while working. The D4 has some button changes from the D3S.

The buttons are not exactly alike, so I can see myself making some errors. So, I will try to replace my Nikon D3S with another Nikon D4 very soon.

The Nikon D3s are great cameras, and if it had not for the changes in all the buttons, I might have lived with the slight differences in the cameras’ still image shooting. However, while the changes might be significant improvements, adjusting my shooting from camera to camera could cost me an image.

I think Nikon did think through this and still made the changes because some of the functions are improvements.

There are more differences on the back than on the front. While many buttons appear the same, they are not all the same.

I am not going into every button difference here in this post.  I just wanted to highlight some that I use all the time.

First, the metering mode choices are located in very different places. The options are the same, but you now push the choice at the top left and rotate the thumb dial to select the various metering modes.

I seldom use the average meter and pick between the spot and the matrix.

One difference is the metering choices. The Nikon D4 has removed the dial on the viewfinder and moved it to the left-top menu.
This is the back of the Nikon D3S

The following significant change for me is the focusing modes. On the Nikon D3S, you just flipped the dial on the back, and depending on whether you had the camera in AF-S or AF-C, different functions were tweaked in the menu.

On the Nikon D4, most choices are now visible on the top menu when you push the AF button on the front and use the thumb or index finger dials.

This is the back of the Nikon D4
This is the Auto Focus button on the Nikon D4. You push the button to change functions and turn the aperture or shutter dial.
This is the Auto Focus button on the Nikon D3S
Nikon D4: When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the thumb dial on the back, the AF switch changes from AF-S to AF-C.
Nikon D4—When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the index finger dial, you change the AF-C to many different options. This is the third choice.
Nikon D4—When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the index finger dial, the AF-C switches to many different options. This is the d51 point.
Nikon D4 – When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the index finger dial, you change the AF-C to many different options. These are the d21 points.
Nikon D4—When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the index finger dial, the AF-C switches to many different options. This is the D9 point.
Nikon D4—When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the index finger dial, you change the AF-C to many different choices. This is the single [ ] that you move around.
Nikon D4—When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the index finger dial, you change the AF-C to many different choices. This auto function locks in on faces and other subjects based on algorithms.
Nikon D4: When you push the AF button on the front of the camera and rotate the index finger dial, you change the AF-S to one of two choices: Single or Auto.
These are the dials on the Nikon D3S. The lock button on the Nikon D4 has been changed to the meter, and the lock function is now in the menu rather than a dial.
This is the Nikon D4. Having the meter choice here is nice in some ways. I miss the lock button from the Aperture, and the shutter is no longer here. However, it is still accessible in the menu.
This is the Nikon D4. You will notice a new red dot on a button. This is for the movie function as the start and stop function. The rest is the same.

There will be even more updates as I get used to the new Nikon D4.

Photo Marketing 101: Step one (Old School)

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Even if you are still in school the business card is one of the most valuable Old Schoolbusiness tools you can use. If you are in school the goal is to get a job and you need to start now networking and the business card is one of the most valuable tools I use.

What is shocking to me is how often I go to meetings and people do not have business cards. Usually these are the same folks saying they need to learn more about business practices.
How they are used

You never know when you will need one, so I always carry a stack of them. Networking is happening at any moment and not necessarily just for those planned networking events.

When I meet someone at a meeting I like the Old School way of getting their business card and writing a note to myself to help me remember them on their card I was given by them.
If I am at a conference for a few days I find that those really unique size cards are more annoying than unique and helping them standout.

When I meet someone at the event I think it is important to see if I can get an appointment with them later.  I find that once we find something in common I like to say how about we get together later and have a cup of coffee or lunch to talk more about it when we don’t have any other distractions.

This is when I typically get their card and say I will be in touch later to schedule some time together.

Accuracy

If someone doesn’t have a card I have to pull out a pen and paper and write the information down or put it on my phone.  This takes some time to do and sometimes in loud areas very hard to hear them talking.

When it is so critical that the difference of a dot when you are trying to find someone on the web is important, don’t you think it should be important enough to be sure they can find you?

This is the QR Code for my website http://www.StanleyLeary.com

QR Code (abbreviated from Quick Response Code) is the trademark for a type of matrix barcode (or two-dimensional code) first designed for the automotive industry. More recently, the system has become popular outside of the industry due to its fast readability and large storage capacity compared to standard UPC barcodes.


If you want to generate a QR Code to put on your business card or create stickers then go here http://createqrcode.appspot.com/.  

What should be on a business card?

While many are starting to ad QR Codes to their business cards here is some other basic information

1.     Full name
2.     Email address (Use your domain to host email@YourDomain.com)
3.     Website/online portfolio (register a domain name www.YourDomain.com)
4.     Phone number
5.     Social Media (Facebook, LinkedIn, Twitter)
6.     Blog
 
Some things you can leave off today
1.     Street Address
2.     Photograph

Electronic Business Cards
http://www.CardCloud.com

You may want a virtual business card. One of these examples is the CardCloud.  Unlike traditional cards they never run out. You can share it with anyone; they don’t need the app for you to use it. It lets you track whom you gave your card to and therefore helps you to reconnect easier in the future.

CardCloud is a digital business card application that is looking to replace the traditional printed business card. Rather than trading contact info by passing out a printed business card, CardCloud allows you to share your contact info directly from your iPhone to anyone in the room which is then stored automatically through .vcf or .vCard format. Alternatives to CardCloud include contxts, dub, Bump and BusinessCard2.

vCard is a file format standard for electronic business cards. vCards are often attached to e-mail messages, but can be exchanged in other ways, such as on the World Wide Web or Instant Messaging. They can contain name and address information, phone numbers, e-mail addresses, URLs, logos, photographs, and audio clips.

With LinkedIn, Twitter, Facebook and other ways to connect on the spot when you meet someone what good is a business card? I can tell you from being a journalist for more than 30 years when someone tells me how to spell their name many times we still get it wrong due to the accent or lack of articulation by some folks.

While many in sales are saying the business card maybe on the way out—I think it is here to stay.  I think the difference is now in what information you put on your card.


www.Sharpdots.com
is where I get my business cards printed.  You can get 2,500 business cards with 4-color on the front and back for only $35.

Do me a favor and send me your vCard so I have your business card.