Concert photography: Better known as the Black Hole

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Huey Lewis and the News 1982 in Greenville, NC

At least I found ONE photo for the paper

I remember being in the darkroom, looking through my concert photo shoot, and struggling to find one image I could give to the editors.

When I was photographing bands in the 1980s, I was starting this career. Every time I pushed that button, it cost me about 50¢ to 75¢ a photo. The cost depended on if I was shooting black and white, color negative, or color transparency film. It was standard for me to avoid a concert with only a handful of keepers’ images.

The learning curve for me was pretty steep compared to today. You had to wait to see your results.

Joe Jackson, 1983 at Great Adventure in Howell, NJ.

With film, the time from me taking the photo to see if it was usable was a few hours at best and, usually with color transparency, a couple of weeks.

I should have written down all my camera settings and, when looking at the photos, know what I did, but I didn’t. So I knew the shutter speed was too slow, and my images were not sharp.

Brice Street at the Attic in Greenville, NC, 1983

The camera’s metering systems were not as sophisticated as today. So getting a good reading on the face of the singer using a spot meter in your camera that we have today was not on those Nikon FM or FM2 cameras I had back then.

I was shooting tungsten color transparency film since tungsten temperature lights lit most stages. I was shooting ISO 160 being pushed to ISO 320. I had a Nikon 80-200mm ƒ/4 lens and got a few usable images back then.

I made a lot of mistakes in those first five years. Sometimes I hunted through contact sheets for just one image that could run in the school paper. I remember a time or two handing in photos that were slightly out of focus or had more motion blur than I should have.

Charlie Daniels Band at East Carolina University 1984

The Attic in Greenville, NC, had a good number of rock bands come through, and since it was such a small venue, the lights were closer, and the light was decent. However, the light wasn’t much better when the school had concerts like the Charlie Daniels Band.

I was getting very few usable images in those days. But, you see, shooting in the bright sun was much easier than going into some nightclubs where the light was scarce.

Late Night Reading at Swayze’s in Marietta August 2012 [Using off-camera strobes]

Even with today’s cameras, you will not walk into the venue and walk out with all your photos in focus, sharp, and well lighted because of the new cameras. So I am drawing upon all those years of mistakes today. I am showing up with lights in my car, so I can get to set up as needed.

When I went to Swayze’s in Marietta, GA, to photograph a boy band, I walked into worse lighting than I had in the 1980s. So, after trying to shoot with the available light, I went to the car to get some strobes. I knew that was the only way to get usable images like the one above of the bass player from the band Late Night Reading.

Five lights in the ceiling on the band. Four in front and one behind the drummer. Also, there were footlights in cases that the guitar and bass player jumped on, lighting them more than the lights in the ceiling. [Nikon D4, 28-300mm @ 125mm, ISO 5000, ƒ/5.6, 1/60]

Here is the overall shot of the stage showing their lighting. I had a few photos in focus because they were a punk band. They didn’t stay still like some bands. Their heads were banging as fast as the music. My experience told me to shoot the available light and get all I could see without lights before setting up lights. Too many photographers jump too quickly to strobes and try to shoot at low ISO all the time.

[Nikon D4, 14-24mm @ 14mm, ISO 5000, ƒ/5.6, 1/60, with off-camera strobes firing] You can see the footlights here.

What I learned through the years

If I had not been shooting bands on stage for years, I would not know what stage lighting should look like. I realized some concerts; the bands paid attention to the lighting. Huey Lewis and the News, the lighting was excellent. For a Rita Coolidge concert, the lighting was great. For the Charlie Daniels band not so great. With Charlie Daniels wearing a hat and the light from above, he never had a good morning on his face. 

Rita Coolidge 1983

Later, when I didn’t use a flash to photograph Marc Brousard, I was equally screwed until he looked up into the light as here below.

Knowing what good light looks like makes it much easier to understand how to create it later with strobes or hot lights. I learned from shooting stage lighting that I wanted good morning on the performer’s face, which often meant a light that wasn’t being blocked by hats.

  1. I have learned to consistently shoot the available light first before adding lights.
  2. I learned that the light changes as the artist move around the stage. So sometimes the light is excellent, and sometimes it sucks–depends on your timing and luck.
  3. I try to shoot faster shutter speeds for sharp photos. Then, of course, I may experiment with slower shutter speeds to show motion, but when I do, I know that is what I am looking for in the photo.
  4. I shoot more variety of shots today–wide, medium, and tight photos.
  5. I shoot the reaction to the stage as well as the stage.
  6. I shoot each type of shot until I have some variety, not just a photo here and one there.

While shooting what is on stage from different angles can give your clients some variety, what happens off the stage is just as compelling when put into a package.

You don’t get credit for lighting professional productions as a photographer. However, not getting good skin tones and technically in-focus, sharp, and well-exposed photos will keep you from making a living in this profession.

By shooting the crowd, you are visually capturing how they sound. The group is into it if they are good, as we see above, with their hands in the air. Getting people up and dancing is another way to show how the music moved people. The point is the action isn’t always on the stage.  

I can tell you from my earlier years I didn’t know how to shoot the crowd’s reaction to the music. That is one of the best signs of the seasoned pro–broad coverage.

I am thrilled when the light is excellent, like when I photographed the comedian Tim Hawkins. My job is so much easier. I don’t have to light the stage. You don’t get credit for the lighting if you have great shots at venues like this. 

Comedian Tim Hawkins. [Nikon D4, 70-200mm @ 135mm, ISO 5600, ƒ/5.6, 1/500]

When you start, you will be terrified when you show up at events with little or no light. You will make mistakes and lots of them. Most likely, the people hiring you don’t know how difficult the job is. They hired you to shoot.

You will be sick as you edit your work, hoping you have enough images to show the client and pray they are satisfied enough.

As you get more experience, your anxiety will diminish. You will come to jobs with more gear for those difficult moments you anticipate. You now know how bad it could get.

Just know all professions have a lifecycle that you grow into becoming a veteran.

The lifecycle for the professional photographer

  1. First five years–Lots of mistakes and primarily the way we learn
  2. Second five years–Still making mistakes, but now learning to round out our coverage
  3. Third five years–Have a style that is established that is professional.
  4. Forth five years–Nailing most assignments and not just delivering what is expected, but now experimenting with stretching beyond
  5. Fifth five years–Going after new markets and often trying new things to add to our portfolio of skills. 

You will notice that every five years, you will have mastered a new skill you started and added this to your portfolio of skills. This is because to remain competitive, you add a new skill every five years and take about five years to perfect it.

Some skills that you might add over time

  • Lighting with hot shoe flash
  • Using studio strobes in a studio setting
  • Portrait Lighting
  • Product lighting
  • Location lighting
  • Video

Checklist for Sharp Photos

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Squeeze the shutter  Don’t punch the shutter release

Keep the camera as still as possible. If you can shoot with a tripod, all the better. If you can shoot with a monopod. One of the biggest reasons most people’s photos are not sharp is camera movement.

Shutter Speed and Focal Length work together.

If you are paying attention to which lens you have on your camera and how this affects your shutter speed, your photos may be more sharp than they are. The rule of thumb is to turn your lens into a fraction and use that to set your shutter speed. Put one over the focal length and then use the shutter speed closest to that as the slowest for hand-holding the camera.

A 200mm lens should give you 1/200 shutter speed. A 50mm should be held at least 1/50.  If you do not have 1/200 and the closest shutter speed is 1/250, use this, and don’t go under 1/125.

Nikon D4, Sigma 120-300mm ƒ/2.8 with Sigma 1.4 converter, ISO 900, ƒ/5.6, 1/2000

Subject Speed

Photographing a building versus a race car is a big difference. You can have a shutter speed that lasts for hours and not affect the sharpness of a photo, but stopping a bullet in flight might require 1/10,000 to freeze the action. I had always heard 1/500 to stop action. From my personal experience, the razor-sharp photos of sports tend to be about 1/2000 for me. 

Aperture 

The depth-of-field you choose can make a photo appear out of focus even if it is in focus. For example, when you shoot at ƒ/two and the subject is 15 inches from the lens, the sharp area in front and behind the point you are focusing on is most likely less than an inch. However, move that subject to 15 feet, and your depth of field may now be a foot or more.   Find the balance between ƒ/16, keeping everything in focus and wide open ƒ/2.8 with great Bokeh throwing the background out of focus. I often shoot ƒ/four on a Nikon 400mm ƒ/2.8 to get more usable images. Focus Miss On many cameras today, you can have multiple focus points. My Nikon D4 has 51 different points for focusing. 

Depending on my focus mode, it is either more straightforward to focus or more difficult. The point is that people often need to tell the camera where to focus. When doing portraits, I use the eyes as my focus. If they are turned slightly to the camera, one eye is closer than the other, and I always try to get the closest eye in focus. This is when I may change my aperture to be sure they are both in focus.

With Nikon Capture software, I can check where I was focusing later and see if I missed my focus. After using this to help me, I realized I needed more focus due to me and not the camera’s capability.

96:one “We Believe” Farewell Concert Historic Sanctuary

Post Processing

I use either PhotoShop unsharp mask or Lightroom to sharpen the image for how it is being used. Most images could use just a little sharpening. If you overdo the sharpening, it will not look good. A little will give it a bit of a sharpness “kick.” Use a small radius (perhaps a pixel or less) and a large amount.

Most photos are only processed with sharpening once I export out of Lightroom.

If I post the photos to the web, I choose the setting here when I export Screen and Standard.

You can make other choices when you export paper quality and influence your choice.

Importance of Model Release for the photographer

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Why do I need a model release?

Whoever publishes a photo is the one who needs the model release. Photographers get model releases as a general rule to help out their clients.

Having a model release increases the value of a photograph, because now it can be used in more ways than without one.

What release should I use?

Here are a few ways I recommend.Easy Release App   For my iPad and Android phone I have an App for getting releases.  If you download an App the App store then will recommend more Apps for you based on what you have already downloaded.  I got a recommendation for the Easy Release.   You don’t need an iPad for this App.  You can put it on just about any Smart Phone or Tablet as long as they are Android or an iPhone/iPad.   The App generates a PDF and a JPEG of the model release.  I love this because then I can put many of these PDFs into one larger PDF and upload this to my PhotoShelter Image Database.  The client has a copy now of the model releases along side the photos.

Pocket Release  

I personally have been using the pocket release, which I modified from the American Society of Media Photographers.  Their legal counsel came up with forms and so many photographers have been using them through the years. Click here for a link to their website which gives you all you need to know about the model and property release.    

4 – Up Pocket Release Forms

I put 4 of the pocket release forms on a page and print them one 8.5″ x 11″ card stock and have them cut into smaller sheets.   Which language should I use?   

TTL Nikon Off Camera Flash Kit

Reading Time: 2 minutes

The total package cost of $1,067.01
Prices based on July 5, 2013

This is just a list of what I recommend for those wanting to do off-camera flash with the Nikon TTL system and using the PocketWizard radio system to fire the flashes.

You can substitute another Nikon TTL or off-brand to lower the price.

$10.17 on Amazon
CowboyStudio Flashlight /Hot Shoe/Umbrella Holder with Swivel/Tilt Bracket

Here is another metal bracket option.  I own both of these and find they work equally well.

$22.49 on Amazon
Interfit Metal Umbrella Bracket with Adjustable Flash Shoe

$57.68 on Amazon
Manfrotto 5001B Nano Black Light Stand – 6.2′ (1.9m)
I chose this light stand because of how small it folds up [19.3″ (49cm)] for easy travel through airports.

$16.23 on Amazon
CowboyStudio 43-Inch Black and White Umbrella for Photography and Video Lighting Reflective

$418 on Amazon
PocketWizard MiniTT1 Radio Transmitter, FlexTT5 Transceiver and AC3 Zone Controller Bundle – Nikon
The AC3 helps you control the flash power from the camera and attaches to the Mini TT1 on the camera. The TT5 fits on the flash and the light stand.

$546.95 on Amazon
Nikon 4809 SB-910 Speedlight

$17.98 on Amazon
External Flash Battery Power Pack for SD-9A Nikon Speed light SB910
Whenever you shoot with Nikon Speedlights, you cannot shoot continuously forever. It would be best to shoot in small bursts of under 10 frames at a time to let the flash cool.  If you do not, you will send it to Nikon for repair. The external battery will just give you more flashes, which is how I use it rather than shooting faster.