Godox V860IIN + Godox X1NT

I just purchased the Godox 860IIN [$199] with the radio transmitter Godox X1NT [$49.95]. The reason I did this is I loved the Neewer TT850, which is pretty much the same flash with the TTL capabilities.


Godox 2.4GHz RF Radio System
Range – 100m +
Flash Modes – iTTL / M / OFF
HSS to 1/8000th
Second Curtain Sync
FEC / FEB – 1/3rd Increments (±3 Stops)
FEL (Flash Exposure Lock)
Manual Flash – 1/128 – 1/1 Output (1/3rd Increments)
Remote Flash Zoom (Auto / Manual) (Global for All Groups Only)
Group Mode – 5 Groups A / B / C / D / E (D & E Are Remote Manual Only)
32 Channels
Large LCD Display with Back Light
HSS Delay Setting – 0~19.9ms, (100us Increments)
Modeling flash
Auto Memory Function
AF Assist light (With an On/Off Switch)
Wireless Shutter Release
Micro USB Port for Firmware Upgrades
Transmitter PC Sync Port – Input & Output
Receiver 2.5mm Sync and Shutter Release Port – Output

I think the radio transmitter is what really made the difference to me. First the radio transmitter for the Neewer TT850 required me to tape it to the side of the flash or it could get bumped off and the channel selection was dip switches that often got bumped. You would need to use a hot glue gun to fix it from being bumped.

Now on this new Godox I bought I can still pick manual mode and dial in Full power to -1/128 like i did before with the Neewer system. See the photo of the radio remote that shows you group A & C on manual and B on TTL.

Besides being able to now use TTL the biggest reason I wanted to buy the flashes was for High Speed Sync up to 1/8000. This will let me shoot at ƒ/1.4 outside using flash.

Getting A Natural Fill Light Feel

My setup

I started with the flash closer and then realized even tho it is TTL if you back it up just a little you stand a better chance of not over exposing as much.

Pulled the flash back a bit after test shots
No Flash

Now what I want to do with my use of the Godox flash, or any flash, is to wink the flash in so as to clean up the skin colors and remove some of the shadows often created from the sun being above most subjects during the main part of the day.

I set the flash on Group A and the Trigger to Group A on TTL with the exposure compensation set to 0.

Now I did not adjust the exposures in Lightroom. I just wanted you to see what the camera and flash do without any help from tweaking the exposure.

-1 Exposure on flash. Camera is at 0 compensation.

Here you can see the setting on the Radio.

While E and B have some settings in manual mode, I have only one flash set on Group A. So this is the only thing that matters for my setup. If I had other flashes set to Group E and B then they would be important.

-2 Exposure Value on Flash
-3 Exposure Value on Flash

Now you also can have the camera under and over expose. I am usually shooting in Aperture mode so when you under or over expose the camera will adjust Shutter Speed and/or ISO to get the proper exposure.

-3 EV on Camera and +1 EV on flash [ISO 100, ƒ/1.8, 1/500]
Now the downside to using TTL is that if you move the camera the light values change in the scene. The camera’s sensors are what is used to figure out the TTL proper exposure. The camera will make the scene look normal or under exposed or over exposed depending on your settings. However, this doesn’t mean it is what you were looking for, it is as the camera’s sensor is interpreting the data.

This is why switching the flash to manual mode you can keep it the same value as long as the flash and the subject remain the exact same distance from each other.

+1 EV on camera and -3 EV Flash

I believe that sometimes the flash is too strong and makes the background look unnatural. Many photographers use no flash and just open up until the face looks great and let the background go really hot.

I find that if I am going for high key then over exposing in the camera and just winking that flash at -3 EV looks natural yet color correct on skin tones better than without the flash.