|Fuji X-E2, Nikon AF 60mm f/2.8 D Micro, ISO 200, ƒ–wide open, 1/8|
Since the lens is attached to my Fuji X-E2 with the Nikon G AFS lens to Fujifilm Fuji X-Pro1 X-E1 Adapter Aperture Control Ring I wasn’t really sure what the exact ƒ-stop was due to the extension tube factor. I probably added a stop.
This was the setup. I shot the photo using the 10 second timer delay.
|Fuji X-E2, Nikon AF 60mm f/2.8 D Micro, ISO 200, ƒ–closed down, 8 sec|
You can see the photo is better than a one-to-one ratio. I only shot two photos with the lens. One wide open and one closed all the way down.
Now to get a comparison for the crop factor here are the Nikon D750 photos.
|Nikon D750, Nikon AF 60mm f/2.8 D Micro, ISO 100, ƒ/5, 1/15|
The extension tube put the lens further from the film plane on the Fuji and thus created an even shallower depth-of-field than the Nikon D750. The second factor is the cropped affect.
|Nikon D750, Nikon AF 60mm f/2.8 D Micro, ISO 100, ƒ/57, 6 sec|
You can also see the exact ƒ-stops and notice that even with the D750 shooting one ISO slower than the Fuji the shutter was open a lot longer due to the extension tube.
I was using a tripod to keep the camera still. With the Nikon D750 I was using the Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control Infrared to trigger the camera. I chose the “Remote mirror-up” setting and this lets you lock the mirror up and then take a photo. You press it once and the mirror locks up and then a second time to take the photo. Here is an earlier post on this technique.
If you have other lenses for a DSLR then get a converter and see what those lenses can do. The cool thing with a mirrorless is you can see what you are getting and also get the lens critically focused since you can see the results before you click the shutter.